Saturday, August 6, 2011

Is the best Pho in New York actually in New Jersey?

Pho is just about my favorite thing in the world when done well. Indeed, I have often theorized that if the Buddhists have it right about reincarnation, I may very well come back as a steaming hot bowl of Pho. There is even some karmic justice to the idea. In this spirit, last week on my way to the Jersey Shore, I decided to stop off in Atlantic City in order to satisfy my degenerate gambling addiction, but also to satisfy another addiction by enjoying a delicious bowl of Pho at Pho Sydney at 2323 Atlantic Avenue. I was accompanied by Miss Charice Silverman, who I decided to initiate into the way of Pho for the very first time.

I don't wish to discuss the Asian gambling gene, but those of you who have spent any time in a casino know.... Asians love a little betting action. This has a beneficial side effect for foodies- whether in Vegas or Atlantic City, there is usually decent Asian food to be found. Almost every casino in Atlantic City has an Asian restaurant, and some even have Hong Kong style noodle bars. There are also at least three Vietnamese restaurants, and Pho Sydney is without question the best of them.

As usual, we aren't going to give demerits for ambiance. There is a large TV sitting on the bar, and the decoration is questionable although the diner style booths were comfortable.

Everyday is XMAS at Pho Sydney
We started out with some summer rolls- because it was hot and it was summer. Pho usually only takes about 5 minutes to come out and is filling enough, but I'm a glutton so I usually want something the moment I sit down, at least that's my expectation in most Vietnamese restaurants. The summer rolls were good if not slightly bland, they filled us up and helped us pass the time while waiting for our soup, but they weren't bursting with flavor and the peanut sauce was a little thin.

Summer Rolls-- good enough

So, let us get to the meat of things. When it comes to ordering Pho, I will invariably order the Pho Tai, which means the beef "Eye of Round" (think Roast Beef) that is sliced thin and served raw and cooks within seconds in the hot beef broth. There are many meat options that I usually pass on, including cartilage, brisket, meatballs, and other sorted and sundry animal parts, but Tai seems to work best for me although sometimes I will add the brisket if I know its especially good. Chicken Pho, or Pho Ga, can be especially delicious if cooked properly with a chicken broth but it is hard to find and many restaurants will cheat and offer some variation of beef Pho with some BBQ chicken on the side, in which cased it should be skipped. I'm excited to say that my friend and fellow newbie blogger Bryan Bui at http://phokingserious.blogspot.com/ will be having a homemade chicken Pho party sometime in the near future, so stay tuned for that post. The Pho should be served with a heaping plate of vegetables to add to it, which usually includes bean sprouts, Thai basil, a wedge of two of lime (although lazy restaurants will sneak in lemons), Cilantro (but not always), Culantro (the long leaves in the pic below),  jalapenos, and sometimes mint.

Fresh veggies to add to Pho
Pho for the very first time

Pho love
I've been to Vietnam before. One day while I was there, I ate Pho for breakfast, lunch, AND dinner. I'm not even kidding - that is how much I like Pho. Even now, I'm tempted to abandon writing this blog and go get another bowl of Pho. At the age of eighty three, my grandchildren will probably find me seated at the kitchen table with me head planted face down in a bowl of Pho.... hopefully only recently deceased.

To sip on the broth at Pho Sydney is like being transported to Vietnam - side note-  Vietnam combat vets may wish to avoid this experience. The fragrance of star anise, the depth of the beef flavor, the umami finish, all are present. The broth is clear and light and once I squeezed a lime into it was slightly tangy too. Pho Sydney has the best Pho stock I have tried West of Vietnam, and that includes well known Vietnamese enclaves around Orlando, LA, and Dallas where I have had Pho more than a few times. The broth alone at Pho Sydney makes it worth the 120 mile trip from NYC to Atlantic city, which is fortunate, because the rest of the ingredients were of a lesser grade. The rice noodles were too soft, the meat in the soup was good but far from the best I have had. If one were to add the noodles and meat from Nam Son on Grand street (post coming soonish), this soup would be without peer. Still, the broth is that good, and Pho Sydney is the only place I've found so far that has the richness of flavor I would expect from a truly good bowl of Pho. At $7 for a big bowl, I'll keep coming back, and at that price, I can even afford it when I lose all my money at the poker table at the Tropicana.


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